Thursday, March 08, 2007

in the infamous words of mr. jon bon jovi

"oooooh we're 1/2-way there...oooooooo- OH! LIVING ON A PRAYER!" That's right folks, hard to believe, but I'm at the 1/2 way mark already. 4 months down and 4 months to go. The glass is half full and half empty too. What can I say? It's been intense, interesting and the pace is picking up too, because I'll be conducting teacher trainings at Amideast using the Shaping Teaching course materials that I picked up in Cairo. I'm excited.

So another semester has begun at Aden University’s College of Education in Khormaksar. I’m now teaching Writing 2 and I feel comfortable now that I have a semester under my belt there. Also contributing to my comfort zone, is the fact that I’m teaching the same students as last semester. More of them know me at the university and really like me. So much so that, I feel like a rock star at times. I roll up on my Chinese-manufactured giant “Rocky”-brandname, full-suspension bicycle listening to Cha-Cha-Cha classics like “El Bodeguero”. I think I’m the only westerner still on campus and I’m also the only one riding around on a bicycle. So, my presence is well-known and I take my fame in stride.

It’s kind of fun actually. Everybody wants to talk to me, buy me a lemonade or a tea. It’s an exotic allure I carry because well, in the words of Butterfly from the Digable Planets, “I’m cool like dat, I’m cool like dat and I’m cool like dat.” I’m friendly and personable and I enjoy talking to whoever is there; from the guys that work in the cafeteria to the administration in the English department. Most of the time, I enjoy shooting the breeze with the students. Naturally, they have a lot of questions about English, America, and things like whether I’m of Arab descent. I have a lot of questions for them, about their culture and Arabic. Some have traveled to other Arab countries and it’s interesting to hear their perspectives.

I sometimes take my Arabic textbook to the University and it’s a lot of fun reversing roles with my students. They are really supportive of me trying to learn their language. Some like, Mahal and Doody, have a very nice teaching style. They coach my reading nicely and enunciate words very well for me.

Sometimes the students and I share music with MP3 players or play games like UNO. Yesterday, I took my guitar and did a little impromptu jam session there. I like taking my guitar to the beach to the boardwalks too. People here don’t see a lot of guitars and they are curious when they see me. The kids gather round and ask me to sing. Here are some songs I play for the students: “Know your Rights” by the Clash (some students thought it was very funny), “La Boa” by Sonora Santanera, “Rudi, A Message to You.” (Selecter or the Specials- I cant remember right now.) They also like the classic guitar instrumentals like Les Jeux Interdits and Malagueña. Flamenco rasgueo appeals to them too. I explained a little about the guitar and let them try it out. The Yemenis really seemed to enjoy strumming to a rhythm. It was a lot of fun singing, taking turns and it was a good informal intercultural exchange. Some guys laughed from afar or as they walked by, but most are curious enough to stop and listen. One guy came up with his own lyrics in English and wanted to rap while I played. So we did and that was nice.

I also played some Shakira songs, the Wanderer by Dion (the girls liked that one). Colours by Donovan (the guys liked that one), Sympathy for the Devil by the Rolling Stones – (I think they did not like it, but I really had fun performing it- I need that one on Karaoke.) I also sang “Never Been To Spain” by Three Dog Night and “La Cucaracha” but I inserted Arabic names here and there to spice it up and get their attention. They REALLY liked that a lot. One guy recorded me performing “La Boa” on his telephone. (A Star is Born!) I think they never see this kind of stuff- a person playing and singing with guitar. I marvel at that, and I think the same would be true in America if somebody pulled out an “oud”, a Middle Eastern stringed instrument, and started singing Arabic songs in an open area at a University campus. I like taking my guitar and playing for the students and I like even taking it to the boardwalks along the beaches here where families and kids are. They are curious and come and listen and ask me to sing. They have no idea what I’m singing about but they smile a lot. Kind of like what I do when I hear an oud player or hear them sing songs. lol

Speaking of guitar styles like flamenco and cha-cha-cha… I’ve been kind of missing Hispanic culture…mi cultura, mi lengua todo ese jale. Within the expat community, there is a varied bunch, German, French, American, English, New Zealand etc, pero desafortunadamente no hay hispanoparlantes. Anyways, to get my fix, I usually email/chat con los amigos or visit the internet or listen to musica en mi ipod, pero last night I finally met some people que hablan espanish- and very well. I was sitting at a café having some juice when I overheard a Yemeni yell at another “Ven Aqui!”

I half-jokingly yelled out, “ No me digas que alguien aqui habla español!?” and they actually responded in Spanish, diciendo, “De donde eres?” Al enterar que habían topado con un mexicano- tal vez el único en Yemen, se pusieron todos muy alegres!” How did they become so well-versed in Spanish…well it goes back to the days when South Yemen was Communist and had strong ties with Russia and Cuba. Fifteen to 20 years ago, these particular Yemenis had studied or worked and learned español in Cuba. Instantly we became friends exchanging numbers and vowing to get together soon for some good times. One of them, Adel, is crazy for Juan Gabriel, y empezó a cantar “Querida”. Ay ay ay, Juana La Loca.

Yemen is an interesting place as you can tell, and I’m making the most of my time here in Aden working, studying al arabiyya and making friends. I want to savor the last 4 months, working with the people of this country. If I can encourage them in their efforts for education, or share with them my thoughts, then in July when I board a plane heading to San Antonio, I know I will have succeeded. I know already I will return home with new information and experiences forever to be carried in my head and my heart. Como dice Julieta Venegas en su canción, Oleada, …y todo lo que ya vivi lo sigo cargando ….lo llevo muy dentro de mi nunca lo he olvidado….lo siento tan cerca de aquí- lo llevo muy dentro de mi
Que sean felices!